![]() ![]() Please give me time to respond but I will check this/PMs daily. I think that's everything, and not really looking to separate the Lip kit pieces or the TRD braces. I also would not call this a style bar and it does add some rigidity as well)Ĥ 16x7 Rota Slipstreams in Bronze (3 Rota "CF" centercaps) with 205/16 Sumitomot HTRzII 6-7/32 tread depth - $600 Will work for most auto-x and FATT/HPDE track days, but I would not call this a truly structural roll bar a la Hard Dog or for regulated series. Team Moon Dual Exhaust (used, on car, seems totally fine, tips never added, NO SHIPPING) - $350Īutpower Roll Bar (4pt mount on storage door/top frame bar corner, works with soft top, currently off car) - $425 (has kirkey padding on it, and pre cut trim panels for the sides/seatbelt areas. Postert Rear Spoiler (Needs paint, been on car for well over 15 yrs, no noticeable dings/damage/scrapes) - $500 (These were rare and hard to come by and expensive back in the 00s, and certainly haven't seen one resold, so just a guesstimate) ![]() I've never seen one cross the marketplace, and I can't find them listed anywhere anymore for even a reference, call it a guesstimate) JDM Brushed Aluminum Rearview Mirror Cover (MR-S script, never seen this in person anywhere before) - $300? (They were something like $220-50 new back in 2001, plus shipping from JapanParts. JDM Door Sills (used, but clean up well, no gouges etc) - $350 (haven't seen any for sale in a while, pretty sure they were around this ~5 yrs ago) TRD Front Strut Brace, TRD Rear Strut Brace, TRD Front Under bracing, TRD rear lower braces - $1750 for the set (roughly the going rate of the 3, and its the whole set in one place) OEM TRD Stage 1 kit, no spoiler as PO sold spoiler and replaced with another (still has the oem black molding trim, also should get a respray, one small crack in front lip, easily fixed when painted) - Looking for $2000 (yes, it's a lot, but there aren't any) SOLD OEM Hardtop with mounts, etc (needs paint, clearcoat totally gone on a 3P0 car) - Looking for ~$2750 (pickup only, I have no interest in shipping this) SOLD Pickup preferred as most items are large, buyer covers shipping if shipping. Pictures will be added over the weekend most likely. Here is the potential list on prices I'd be looking for, I'm negotiable on some, and some I'd be totally fine keeping for future use, but there is probably someone who wants them. ![]() Tons of rare parts, some I've never even seen in the US before (this is Spyder #6 for me, I've parted a much larger build before and been on here 20 years). I don't need to sell any of this, but because the car will have to come apart for a proper repaint, now is the only time it would make any sense. Looking for a chassis to do a kswap track build, and this one is too nice for that (2001 84k miles, one owner until late last year when I got it). Needs a repaint and may just go back to "stock" and sell it as close to OEM as possible. (I have build several aquariums out of both glass and Plexi from 5 gals to 450, and I own 4 sailboats (ok, 3 of them are 11 ft 1 is 30 ft) and do repairs for other owners at the marina as a side job.I am gauging interest in possibly parting my Spyder. (again, this is the way most sailboat windows are installed, plexi/lexan to fiberglass hull, some form of sealant, I like Butyl, and then some kind of securing fastener, bolts are better, but I've seen screws) So yes, plastic window to plastic hard top, I would definitely recommend the bolts!!! Anything you put between the two is just sealant, not a trustworthy glue. i see oem hardtops cf/fiberglass by vis and oem toyota by midship garage, but seems. and yes, i have already read through previous hardtop discussions. recently my rear windshield popped out of my soft top, and im sure theres a cheaper solution, but i was planning on getting a hardtop anyways because they look very nice. Now, there are probably many different grades of Butyl, and the stuff I use is probably NOT suited for window installation, so please to some research on your own. hi, new mr2 owner here, also new to the forum i hope this post is ok. You can get it in a tape form at a camper supply (I use it to seal any and all through deck fittings on Sailboats). Butyl is what the industry uses, and it's not that expensive. However, even if the rear window was glass I would still not recommend using Silicone, as it's adherence to the composite hard top is questionable. ![]() I only use Silicone to fix plastic to glass if it is not structural. BTW, as an aquarium hobbiest/builder while Silicone has tenacious adhering ability to glass, it's "stick" to plastics (plexi/lexan.) is less than 50% of that to glass, and even then it's hit and miss. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |